Georgetown Liquor Company's vegetarian menu transcends basic bar food

To understand Georgetown Liquor Company, you have to get a handle on the Georgetown neighborhood itself. Wedged between Interstate 5 and busy freight train tracks  —  and in the flight path of Boeing Field, no less — this rustic, largely industrial neighborhood seems an unlikely home for a lively arts and music scene.

Nevertheless, Georgetown is where the artists and musicians live and play, and they eat at the GLC.

They eat well. The GLC serves nothing but vegetarian sandwiches, appetizers, Mexican dishes and salads that are "strong enough for a carnivore (but) made for a herbivore," according to the menu.

One taste of anything from the GLC's kitchen will prove that's not an idle boast. Their plates are hearty and flat-out delicious — easily the best bar bites you've ever had, and up there with there with the best non-bar bites, too.

The kitchen's secret weapon is Field Roast, a locally made grain meat substitute partially based on a seventh-century Chinese recipe and imbued with deep, smoky flavors. The GLC piles it onto Ementhaler Swiss, sauerkraut, remoulade and marbled rye to make the Darth Reuben; takes lentil-sage Field Roast and adds roasted red onions, fresh mozzarella, Tofutti cream cheese and roasted garlic spread to make the Picard; and will add it  to the red peppers, goat cheese, fresh arugula and housemade olive tapenade of the Sleestak without complaint. (All the GLC's sandwiches are named for science-fiction icons.)

There are other great tastes to be had: The baked polenta with bourbon ginger-apple chutney, housemade hummus, and arugula artichoke dip are all musts to enjoy. But what really makes the meal is the experience of being in Georgetown, surrounded by Seattle's creative fringe, the sound of a passing freight train singing along with the jukebox.

GLC has free wi-fi and a fine collection of retro Atari classics. The eatery also hosts art shows, gaming tournaments and other special events. Check GLC's Events and Games calendar for details.

Georgetown vegetarian vegan Field Roast meat substitute